Dali Old Town and Erhai Lake

The Bai people’s ancient capital in Yunnan

Dali (大理) is a 1,500-year-old Bai ethnic town in northwestern Yunnan, 300 km west of Kunming and 1,500 km from the major eastern cities. The town sits on the west shore of Erhai Lake (洱海, ‘Ear Sea’) — a 250-sq-km alpine lake — and is backed by the 4,000-m Cangshan Mountain range. The combination of lake, snow-capped mountains, and traditional Bai architecture makes Dali one of the most photographed places in China.

The Bai people (白族) have lived here for over 1,000 years; their traditional architecture (white-washed walls, gray tile roofs, painted wall murals) and cuisine (crossing-the-bridge noodles, rushan cheese) are a major draw. Dali is also a base for exploring the surrounding area: Xizhou village (a 30-min drive with well-preserved Bai courtyard houses), Shaxi Old Town (2 hours away, a forgotten Silk Road town), and the Cangshan trail system.

The foreigner experience in 2026

Dali is one of the most foreigner-friendly destinations in Yunnan. Entry to the Old Town is FREE, the Three Pagodas have English signage, the Erhai Lake electric scooter rental is straightforward, and the Cangshan cable car has English audio guides. The main challenges: the 1,900-m altitude can be tiring for first-day visitors, the July-August rainy season obscures the mountain views, and the language barrier can be real outside the Old Town.

For first-timers, the recommended approach: 2-3 nights. Day 1: Old Town + Three Pagodas + lunch at the local Bai restaurant. Day 2: Rent an electric scooter for the Erhai Lake circuit (130 km, full day). Day 3: Cangshan Mountain cable car + Xizhou village. Combine with Lijiang (2-hour HSR) and Shangri-La (4-hour drive) for a 7-day Yunnan circuit.

What to actually see

Three things stand out. The Three Pagodas of Chongsheng Temple is the most iconic scene — the 1,000-year-old Buddhist pagoda complex, the tallest pagoda at 69 m has 9 stories, and the reflection in the pool at sunset is the most photographed view in Dali. ¥121 entry. The Erhai Lake circuit by electric scooter is the most iconic Dali experience — 130 km around the 250-sq-km lake, with stops at Xizhou village and the lake-shore ancient trees. Dali Old Town is a 600-year-old walled town with cobblestone streets and Bai craft shops — FREE entry, best at night when the red lanterns come on.

The Bai people and their culture

The Bai (白族, ‘white people’) have lived in the Dali region for over 1,000 years. Their traditional architecture features white-washed walls with painted wall murals, gray tile roofs with upturned eaves, and central courtyards. The cuisine features crossing-the-bridge noodles (过桥米线, the rice noodles served with hot broth and a platter of raw ingredients to add), rushan cheese (乳扇, a Bai specialty similar to mozzarella but chewier), and Erhai Lake fish. Most visitors encounter the Bai culture through the Xizhou Ancient Town (30 min north of Dali) and the morning market, where Bai women in traditional dress sell breakfast and crafts.

Final tip

The biggest mistake first-timers make: trying to do it as a day trip from Lijiang. The HSR connection is fast (2 hours from Lijiang) but the Old Town + Three Pagodas + Erhai Lake needs at least 2 full days. The second mistake: not renting an electric scooter. The 130-km Erhai Lake circuit is the most iconic Dali experience, and most of it is on quiet lakeside roads perfect for a scooter. The third mistake: visiting in July-August. The rainy season obscures the mountains and makes the lake-shore riding wet and slippery.