Lijiang Old Town

The 800-year-old town built by the Naxi minority

Lijiang Old Town is one of four ancient towns in China designated UNESCO World Heritage (along with Pingyao, Langzhong, and Shexian). What makes Lijiang unique is its Naxi minority culture — the Naxi are one of China’s smallest ethnic groups, and Lijiang is the only town in China where their 800-year-old wooden architecture, stone canals, and 354 bridges are still intact. Marco Polo called Lijiang “the finest and most splendid city in the world” when he passed through in the 13th century, and the town has retained that atmosphere — at least before 8am and after 19:00, when the day-trippers leave.

The Old Town is fully pedestrianized. Cars are not allowed inside; luggage is hauled on handcarts; deliveries arrive by handcart. The result is a town that feels almost European in pace: stone lanes, cobblestone underfoot, and the sound of water from the canals that thread through every street. The 354 stone bridges are the highest density in China — most date to the Ming and Qing dynasties, and several have legends attached (the most famous being the Couple’s Bridge 双龙桥 where Naxi couples would meet).

What the foreigner experience looks like in 2026

The Old Town is well-set-up for foreign travelers. The ¥80 entrance fee (called 古维费 “Old Town Maintenance Fee”) is collected at 16 entry checkpoints 07:00-19:00; after 19:00 the Old Town is free to enter. Alipay works everywhere, English signage is consistent in the main lanes, and most of the small inns have English-speaking staff. The town is small enough to walk across in 2 hours, but most travelers stay 2-3 days to catch the night atmosphere and the early-morning golden hour on Jade Dragon Snow Mountain.

The main thing to know: the Old Town is overrun with day-trippers between 10:00 and 17:00, when the tour buses arrive. If you stay in a hotel inside the Old Town, you can experience the lanes empty by walking out at 6am or 9pm. This is the difference between a frustrating day and an unforgettable one.

Naxi culture: what makes Lijiang different

The Naxi minority has one of the most distinctive cultures in China. Their 1,000-year-old pictographic writing system (东巴文 Dongba) is still used by Taoist priests for religious ceremonies — it’s the only pictographic script in the world still in active use. The Naxi Ancient Music (纳西古乐), performed nightly at the Old Town stage, is a fusion of Taoist ritual music, Confucian ceremony, and the Naxi tradition — played on instruments from the 14th century. The Naxi Heritage Museum (东巴文化博物馆) is free and has good English signage; allow 90 minutes.

The Naxi matrilineal tradition is also worth knowing. Until 1956, Naxi women did not marry; they had visiting relationships with men from other clans, and the children stayed with the mother. The Naxi term “阿注” (azhu, “friend”) for these relationships is now a tourist slogan, but the original meaning is matrilineal, not casual. The Naxi women still wear distinctive blue aprons and embroidered caps; the embroidery tradition is the most famous in Yunnan.

Where to stay: choose a Naxi courtyard hotel

Most Old Town hotels are restored 200-year-old Naxi courtyard houses (四合院 siheyuan) — wooden buildings with a central courtyard, a small stream running through the property, and roof tiles that creak in the wind. The best mid-range options are 客栈 kèzhàn (inns) in the eastern lanes — quieter than the western side, walking distance to Black Dragon Pool. The luxury options (InterContinental, Banyan Tree) are modern, not restored, and located just outside the Old Town.

Final tip

Wake up before 7am. The lanes are empty, the tour buses haven’t arrived, and the light on the stone bridges is golden. Spend 1-2 hours walking the eastern lanes (五一街 Wuyi Jie area) — these are the quietest, with the best small cafes and the fewest crowds. Then head to Black Dragon Pool (黑龙潭) for the Jade Dragon Snow Mountain reflection.